Image: The author with Marjorie Fitzgibbon's sculpture of James Joyce in Dublin (source: Pete Mitchell)
As a confessed bibliophile, few places in the world compare to the rich literary landscape of the United Kingdom, from where I've just returned.
Steeped in history and brimming with stories that have shaped global culture, the UK offers a myriad of locations that are sure to make any booklover's heart race. Whether you’re wandering through the cobbled lanes of London or sitting in a cozy corner of a Scottish pub listening to stories of the spoken kind, the UK provides an enchanting journey through time and imagination.
My journey starts in London, once the haunt of literary greats such as Dickens, Woolf, and Conan Doyle. Some might correctly point out that Conan Doyle was born in Scotland, but it is undeniable that he made his home and set many of his books in London. Not too far up the road (by Aussie standards at least) sits Oxford – the haunt of Tolkien, Lewis and Carroll. Oxford wasn’t on the itinerary this time, but I have previously sat in the ‘Bird and Babe’ and wished that I might be inoculated with some of the brilliance of the Inklings.
This trip had an obligatory visit to Hatchard’s, London’s oldest bookshop and the subject of three Royal Warrants, established in 1797. I could have spent hours browsing its carefully curated collections. Alas, I felt the restriction of a strict luggage allowance and had to curtail the weight of too many books. I did however purchase a little hardbound copy of “The Uncommon Reader” by Alan Benett, published by Hatchard’s themselves. This little book provided a good reading distraction on the overcrowded tube.
Image: Hatchard's, Piccadilly Street, London. (Source: Hatchard's)
Onto Foyles, not too far from Hatchards, in Charing Cross Road. Foyles is another London institution and has been referred to as the heart of London's literary scene. Established in 1903, Foyles has grown from a small family-run business, into a massive, multi-level emporium that houses over 200,000 titles. I believe it began when three brothers tried to get some cash by selling their university texts, it is now known more for its diverse and sizeable collection of books (music and art supplies), spanning every genre imaginable. It also has a nice café. Foyles is also known for its support of readers and writers. It regularly hosts literary events, author signings, and discussions. Unfortunately, none of these coincided with the times that we were be there.
Image: "Welcome booklover, you are among friends" a delightful introduction to Foyles, Charing Cross Road, London. (Source: Pete Mitchell)
Daunt Books in the leafy suburb of Marylebone is another haven for book lovers, particularly those with a passion for travel literature. Founded in 1990 by James Daunt, the flagship store in Marylebone is an architectural and literary gem. Housed in an Edwardian building with beautiful staircases and stained glass, Daunt Books retains its historic charm with oak galleries, skylights, and long wooden bookcases that stretch up to the high ceilings. The store’s unique feature is its organization of books by country, rather than by genre. This arrangement allows readers to find a curated selection of travel guides but more impressively fiction written by (or about) particular regions. It was heartening to see the Australian section featured Winton, Carey and Garner.
Image: The brilliantly lit, multistorey cavern that is Daunt Books, Marylebone, London. (Source: Pete Mitchell)
Restricting ourselves to the bigger end of London town wouldn’t be appropriate though so we looked further afield to satisfy our bookish predilections. The Little Margate Bookshop is a gem on the southeast coast of England. Known for its quirky charm and carefully curated selection, this independent bookstore reflects the vibrant artistic spirit of the area. The shop specializes in a range of genres, including contemporary fiction, poetry, and children’s books, with a focus on local authors and small press publications. Its cozy, welcoming atmosphere makes it a favourite among locals and visitors alike. The Little Margate Bookshop’s location in Margate, a town undergoing a cultural renaissance (some might say gentrification), makes it a perfect spot for book lovers seeking something a bit off the beaten path.
Image: The Margate Bookshop, a little gem on the English southeast coast. (Image: Pete Mitchell)
But the literary travel wasn’t restricted to England. No bibliophilic trip to the UK would be complete without Ireland. I’m yet to find a totally plausible explanation as to why the Emerald Isle produces so many great writers. One explanation suggests that the Irish Gaelic language itself is so musical and literary that it is a natural thing to translate into prose. Another explanation offered is that the culture of orally celebrating stories in the local pub (liberally lubricated with Guiness) contributes. I'm not sure if these explanations are factual, there is no doubt however that Ireland punches well above it literary weight with the likes of Joyce, Yeats, Wilde, Beckett, Swift and Toibin. Indeed, the city of Dublin is scattered with multiple statues, paintings and tributes to James Joyce alone. There is also a unique painted bronze sculpture of Oscar Wilde.
Image: The painted bronze sculpture by Danny Osborne, the Oscar Wilde Monument, Merriton Square, Dublin. (Source: Pete Mitchell)
Mindful of luggage weight, visits to Irish bookshop were approached with restraint. A visit to the Museum of Irish Literature was however, not to be missed.
Image: Another depiction of James Joyce, Museum of Literature Ireland. Source Pete Mitchell)
Scotland struggles not be overshadowed by its neighbour across the sea. Literary greats such as Burns, Scott, Louis Stevenson and Welsh have all come from the land of the brave, Caledonia.
Image: An unexpected tribute to writers at the Edinburgh Train Station. (Source: Pete Mitchell)
I don’t expect I’ll ever see a tribute to an author as grand as the Sir Walter Scott Memorial in Edinburgh. Indeed, the design of the memorial is so impressive that it is featured in the Scottish Design exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in Dundee. According to Wiki the Victorian Gothic monument is the second-largest monument to a writer in the world (after the José Martí monument in Havana). The Scott Monument is a 61-metre-high tribute to the Scottish writer. It has been possible to climb the monument via 287 steps, however this was closed at the time of our visit. Interestingly, the life size sculpture of the author is accompanied by a sculpture of his dog, Maida. Less obvious are the 67 other sculptures, including those of other Scottish poets and authors, several kings and eight kneeling Scottish Druids.
Image: The impressive Sir Walter Scott Memorial, in the Princes Street Gardens, Edinburgh. (Image: Scotland Tourism)
On return to London, we visited the National Portrait Gallery and was again treated to tributes to great British authors including Joyce (again), Potter, Darwin and Hodgkin. If the last two seem misplaced, let me set you straight. Charles Darwin, with his book ‘On the Origin of the Species’, wrote a book that continues to resonate. I still shake my head at an interaction I had at a book event featuring my novel ‘Darwin’s Wake’ where an attendee told me that she didn’t believe in “all that evolution and stuff”. I didn't have a chance for any further discussion as she walked off adjusting her tinfoil hat. Actually, she didn’t have her hat with her at the time, but I’m certain she had one at home.
Image: A portrait of Dorothy Hodgkin, by Maggi Hambling (1985) at the National Portrait Gallery, London.
Readers might be less familiar with the name Dorothy Hodgkin, but she is someone that crosses over to my other area of interest. Hodgkin was a winner of the Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 1964. Her prize was recognition for her work on determining the structures of penicillin and insulin, two drugs that have saved millions of lives. She wrote her groundbreaking work in the area of x-ray crystallography at a time when women in the science were rare, whilst raising three children and suffering debilitating rheumatoid (from the age of 24). She was also awarded the Lenin Peace Prize by the Soviet government in 1987 in recognition of her work in the areas of peace and disarmament. Hodgkin is a remarkable author and scientists by any measure. Darwin and Hodgkin deserve to be revered in the same company as other fictional writers.
Image: Sir Charles Darwin's portrait by John Collier (1883) at the National Portrait Gallery London.
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